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Elephants in camp! - Brandberg, Namibia - Sept. 2022

joostremke

Elephants in camp! - Brandberg, Namibia

We have parked Bessie at the the Whitely lodge (self catering campsite for us), just North of the town of Mis and next to the mountain Brandberg. It was a short but scenic drive up from Spitzkoppe, which was also a magnificent site not to be missed on any trip through Namibia.



This Whitely lodge is down as “the home” of a herd of desert elephants, who visit the area regularly on their long treks up and down the riverbed that runs in front of the lodge. A quick check learns us that “they” are about 80km North though moving South rather quickly. As they can travel 40-50km per night, we could well meet them in the coming two days.


We decide to relax at the pool, buy some wifi homeschooling tokens, enjoy some burgers and cold drinks, while connecting with friends and family. The lodge is an oasis with lush green grass, meerkats as pets, two pools and comfy chairs, in other words, a place we can spend a few days while waiting for the elephants to come closer, hopefully.


On day two, the good news that the elephants were getting a lot closer was spreading fast. The morning tour saw them only 35 km North. We decide to stay one more night and book a tour for the morning. As they were full, we get the chance to follow them in our own trusted Bessie. The drive is cooling itself, over 4x4 small tracks and trails, through thick sand and river beds. And then, ……., only 8 km out, we spot the herd, beautiful moment!


23 in total, roaming the lush reen banks of the river, eating and moving forward steadily. 3 big bulls, a 7 month old baby and plenty of ladies to make up the herd. What a sight! This is Africa, this is what we have been dreaming off.


We drive alongside them, then turn off the engine to keep the noise down and avoid disturbing the herd.. We watch, and watch some more, this will never ever get boring. When they overtake us, we repeat the process. They are big though they move with grace and in silence. The ripping off of branches and the occasional trumpet is about all the noise they make and we hear. Another surreal experience for us and we have the chance to see it with a small group for well over an hour.


As they are getting closer to the lodge, the expectation is that they will wander through our campsite in the evening or possibly, the next morning, and so we decide to stay another night. We are excited and prepared, oranges and other fruit, as well as vegetables are either eaten of carefully hidden in our fridge. Some of us had a sleepless night, listening for any indication that the herd was arriving. Sunrise brought crashing of branches and snapping of water taps and our friends were on the hunt for the best water and the greenest leaves. Only 20 meter from our Bessie’s big bull walks past, while a few of his friends pass us in front. Unreal!


Brandberg treated us with an experience we could only wish for and so now, we happily move on toward Twyfelfontein.


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